I rolled in to California in late afternoon. The earth just east of the Colorado was dark brown, and stony. Earlier in the day I had seen poppies and lupines at the edge of the road and had been wondering where I was seasonally in relation to the cactus bloom. Just right, it turns out. The hills that bordered the highway were covered (as best as stony ground can be covered) with prickly pear sporting large magenta flowers. I also encountered an unusual phenomena as I drove – this was an area I had flown over many times (as Pilot in Command in the mighty Piper) but this was my first time driving. The miles, as gorgeous as they were seemed to go on and on; what had previously taken less than an hour to cover now took over two.
I reached Barstow at sunset. After a quick stop for petrol I headed west on towards Mojave. It was a thin, two-lane highway that crosses the desert, linking Barstow and the lower Sierras with the coast. This stretch of road passes between Edwards AFB and China Lake NAS, two major test facilities. Above is a ten-mile path of airspace between the ranges, one of the few available aviation routes through the test ranges to the LA Basin and California coast. I had driven over 700 miles at this point, and was starting to droop. The sun set, and NPR switched to classical, then was gone. I fished around the center console for something to listen to and discovered the only CD I had with me was Rage Against the Machine. Perfect! Or so I thought, until I came around a turn after the crossroads with CA395. My brain was numb, and it was dark, the kind of night you can only get in the moonless desert. Suddenly, an array of red lights sprung before me, then went dark. A few seconds later this repeated, and again, and again. In the back of my mind I suspected it was position lights from the wind farms but, to be honest, with all the experimental aircraft ops in the area my first thought was ‘It’s the landing lights for the mother ship!’ I will leave you to your own conclusions.
In the morning I set out from Tehachapi. My first stop of the day was the Tehachapi Loop. For those of you who are not train aficionados, the main east-west rail line out of Los Angeles passes through this area. The elevation change is so steep, the track curves and loops to maintain a two percent grade. I was not the only one who made the trek, there
were six of us, a couple from Germany on a motorcycle, another couple who had driven up from San Diego, a local in a week-kept ranch truck and me. After about five minutes we heard the train whistle, and a minute or so later an engine appeared from around a corner from the east (up-grade side). It was just long enough that then engine passed the last cars on the loop.
Once back on the road, I turned on to a shortcut that would bypass Bakersfield. This is another of my favorite drives. The road winds along the foothills of the Sierras, and, after one turn, the lower Central Valley is laid out before you. Today I had another fortunate surprise – the wildflowers were in bloom! And when I say in bloom, entire swaths of the hills were gold, white or lavender. I stopped at the new Bakersfield National Cemetery to take a few snaps; the German couple from Tehachapi, a Japanese couple in a white Mercedes and I all had the same idea and leapfrogged through the cemetery and down the road, stopping every mile or so for more photos.
California is well below normal for rain and snowfall. Once down in the valley, it was easy to see the effects of the drought. Most farmers had signs (at the edge of their almond and citrus orchards) lamenting the high cost of water and the effects rationing was having on their operations. I wasn’t quite sure how to take this. Most people think that California is a desert. In many areas this is true, but the San Joaquin Valley is not one of them. Two hundred years ago, the area I was driving through had been the largest freshwater lake west of the Great Lakes. During the late 1800s, it was the main source of freshwater fish and western pond turtles (used in terrapin soup) to the San Fransisco Bay area. It was a lake as recently as World War II, when it was used as an alternate airport for Naval seaplanes when conditions on San Fransisco Bay did not permit safe landing. But after a flood in the mid fifties the headwaters were dammed, canals built to channel the water for agricultural use and the aquifer slowly drained as farmers planted based on the market and not what the area could support. The irony is the anglo families that settled and took up farming here moved west to flee the Dust Bowl in Oklahoma.
Another two hours driving, across the San Andreas Fault and through the Cuyama and Guadalupe valleys there it was, the Pacific Ocean and my hometown. More on that next post.
This is such fun! Enjoy your first retreat.